My fingers got tired of the abuse caused by knocking out a rivet mandrill before you drill the rivet out. I was thinking there had to be a better way when I noticed a small block (1 x 1,25 x 1.5 inch) of scrap aluminum with a hole in it. Turns out, the hole is just the right size & length to hold a scrap mandrill while I tap it with a hammer to knock out rivet mandrill. A couple of weeks later, I was attempting to use a 12” 3/32 drill. It wasn’t working. When I applied enough pressure to get the bit to bite, the bloody thing would bend and start promising undesired results. The mandrill helper was considered, however it was ugly and I wanted to be able get to tight locations. Just happened to have a trued and squared block that fit the bill.
Mandrill helper on the left and drill guide on the right.
Good point Bryan, I have a small tool steel brick. It has counter bored holes allowing the “spent” mandrill to fall free. I like Dan’s idea as well. I’ve been looking for an opportunity to set/adjust my countersink bit.
Shortly before I retired, my employer was scraping an orphaned inventory of metal T-squares. So I grabbed a few figuring they may come in handy. ( I seem to run my tool inventory on a “just in case” method) A couple of days ago, I was installing former # 5 in the turtle deck and needed a hook to pull it into position.
So, I grabbed one, ground one end narrow enough to fit through the holes in the former, and bent the end down. The cross piece makes a perfect handle.
Incase your wondering, the red stuff is blood.
I have a few bloody airplane parts and plans too. I’ve found that rather than blood, sweat and tears, my Sonex requires blood, sweat, and SWEARS. The blood and swears often occur at the same time.
