DIY-EFI

DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2021 1:43 pm

by WesRagle

HI Guys,

I find myself without a project and have been trying to figure out what to do with myself. I really don’t need another airplane so I’ve been thinking about improvements I could make to my Onex. After listening to the podcast one EIF for the VW, that sounds like a good candidate for an improvement project.

I’ve been following Peter’s example and slowly gathering the bits needed. I’ve also been studying EFI in general and find myself wondering: If one designed an ECU from the ground up, focused like a laser on the existing fleet of VWs, what it look like? How would work?

A few of the many questions that come to mind:

  1. Why aren’t more people installing ECUs.
  2. We have two ignition sources, why couldn’t they be used to trigger injection.
  3. If the two secondary ignition pulses were routed to the ECU why not provide true electronic ignition as well? Allowing the ECU to control spark would make for smooth ground operations while reducing the overall current draw by controlling dwell. If both ignitions are engaged (takeoff) the ignitions would operate in lock step.

On and on the questions go.

Now the big question. Is anyone else interested in this topic?

A good friend volunteered a Sonerai to be used as a test bed for whatever experimentation I wanted. I’m on the verge of “Taking the red pill” and seeing just how far this rabbit hole goes.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2021 5:44 pm

by lakespookie

So a couple of responses,

Item 1. Electrical Dependence, Cost, No off the Shelf Components.
Item 2. your injector pulses are typically not in lock step with the ignition pulses, While you could do some fudging and make due using the ignition pulses as a cheap alternative to a crank positon sensor you would not want to do it with something that has fixed timing i dont 100% rermeber the timing layout of the VW in our configurations but i belive one of the timing systems is not fixed.
Item 3. To do Electronic Ignition you would want to make the spark triggers indipendent of any fixed timing system, of course you would still need to know crank position but a crank position sensor would work alot better and you could set up offset sensors for redundancy, That way you can cross check the crank position signal and be able to trigger the timing in lock step or as necessary for start up and other situations that would demand it for example you could have a knock sensor to retard timing protecting the engine or compensate for CHT readings to adjust timing and or fuel. The biggest challenge with all of this variability and EFI in general are the variable load fuel maps if you go that route and the related timing advance maps. In performance cars we typically use offsets of the base map to account for changes to the engine so that we dont have to tune at various engine loading and RPM ranges this makes life much easier as a tuner since the factory has gone to all the trouble of developing these tables it will get you close enought to the ball park that you wont hurt the engine. And then the real fine tuning is done at WOT to eek out the maximum amount of power from the engine. When i used to do this regularly on highly modified vehicles we would manipulate startup maps to facilitate agressive cams and high compression engines to assist with starts and idle. Some of the newer tools and some race applications were i had access to modifing valve timing and duration were alot more involved of course with off road vehicles you have the benefit of track testing and much greater telemetry than on a street car, Although i did play around with adding some rudimentary telemetry to some personal vehicles.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu Mar 11, 2021 10:44 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Jaun (I think),

Thanks for taking time to respond.

I’m in the middle of nowhere looking for plumbing leaks left by the sub zero freeze we had a couple of weeks back and dont have a keyboard so I have to be brief. Assuming success:

  1. The only missing component is the intakke logs. Electrical dependent probanly yes depending on backup. Cost, TBD.

  2. SDS uses batch injection so no cam sensor needed. I would propose “semi sequential”, one squirt per rev per cylinder for even distribution per cylinder for smooth idle. Easy with wasted spark.
    And “cheap” (inexpensive) is a primary design goal.

Spark triggers are always tied to a fixed reference. Phase shift and pulse width is a software function. Cam sensor is only needed for full sequential. I would adjust the secondary ign to TDC and start on that. Then once running switch to the other trigger and place the ignition in a timing trough for smooth reliable idle.

As far as knock sensor, O2 sensor, closed loop, … I dont see that as practical. If EFI is going to ne accepted it has to be simple, reliable, affordable, and repeatable. Basically a bolt and go solution.

And yes, the VE, spark maps, acceleration enrichment, … would have to be developed but once done for any standard installation, it’s done. It is no good to deliver a pile of parts and tell the end user to “tune” the system. That is no way to improve safety/repeatability and enjoyment of a VW conversion. The only tuning would be fuel ballancing the cylinders.

I see no problem with reversion to batch fire based on primary ignition if the secondary ign fails. Again phase can vary. If both ignitions fail you’re going to land anyway.

OK, I’ve pecked on this thing all I can. I’ll be back to civilization late tomorrow.

I do appreciate any and all feedback. Please find an unfixable hole in the concept and save me a lot of time :slight_smile:

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 12:42 am

by BRS

Wes,
I’ve installed the SDS EFII on three aircraft. First engine was a rotax 912 that had been converted to a 914 (turbo). It ran like a kitten after getting rid of those two bing carbs. The second one was a Sparrowhawk gyroplane which had a subaru frankenmoteur (2.5 block with 2.2 heads). It ran really well and started easy. My third and current aircraft is a Glasair Sportsman with a Lycoming IO-360. Again, I love the way it runs. Also going to the SDS eliminated any problems with vapor lock after a short stop to fuel up.

I would definitely do it again and on a sonex. Perhaps I will after I get this sonex finished and perhaps next year I’ll be looking for another project.

So I mentioned how much I like their system, oh and Ross and Berry are very friendly and helpful on the phone, but there are trade offs. The biggest down side is the all electrical system. On the gyroplane (subaru) I had only a single computer and one plug per cylinder with just the battery and an alternator with a one-wire mod. The battery was a small 3 lb LIPOfe. No redundancy but then the gyroplane can land in like 20’ and I didn’t over fly densely populated areas. The Sportsman (IO-360) is on the other end of the spectrum. It has two alternators, two buss’, two batteries, two ECU’s, two fuel pumps. It’s built to go places with precious cargo (family) on board.

Current draw seems to be about 11 amps. The fuel pump and injectors draw a lot of current. It does use a crank sensor (two actually) which I like very much. This is done with a few small magnets installed in the flywheel (starter ring gear). The timing is variable and is tuned each 200 rpm (something like that). I can go lean of peak at the push of a button. It’s rather amazing. Push the LOP button and the fuel flow drops 26% (in my case on the IO-360) and the timing is bumped up a few degrees. I usually go from 11 gph to 8 gph and much lower CHT’s in an instant.

The most difficult part of the installation is doing the initial tune. Really it does not take that long once you understand what you are doing but this is where damage to the engine can be made. Figuring out what timing maps to use is a difficult part then the mixture is tuned based upon an AFR gauge and O2 sensor in the exhaust. The knock sensors are not used in the planes as the propellers seem to mess with it too much. Also Closed loop is not often used in the planes either.

It’s probably overkill for a sonex but it would be a fun project and that little VW would hum.

Good luck with what ever you do.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Fri Mar 12, 2021 9:02 am

by GordonTurner

There have been at least a few aerovees run from Ross” SDS system. In addition to the sonextalk podcast, which had a lot of good information, there was a thread here many years ago that was full of details from another multiple SDS aircraft converter. I would start with those threads. A few takeaways for me:

  1. The crank sensor needs to be mechanically and electrically bulletproof
  2. The intake logs can be machined for injectors amd this has been successful.
  3. Obviously the electrical system needs to be well thought out and carefully constructed. According to Ross and everybody else I have talked to this is the area that causes most efi engine failures, the crank sensor is the second place.

You are in a good position for making this conversion as your plane is tested and proven. I visited Ross at his business somewhere west of Calgary and talked about converting my Corvair engine to efi. His advice was wait until you prove the airframe and are comfortable with everything before making big new relatively untested changes. So another year or two.

Good luck, hope you go for it. Gordon


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2021 4:15 pm

by WesRagle

HI Guys,

OK, back in town for supplies. Only three leaks. I got off pretty easy.

Hi Brock,

BRS wrote:So I mentioned how much I like their system, oh and Ross and Berry are very friendly and helpful on the phone.

Everyone who has used their system says it’s great. SDS obviously knows what they are doing and have been doing it successfully for a long time. My comment on “tuning” wasn’t meant to be a snipe. It was just a thought bubbling to the surface.

As far as power consumption, that is always an issue with VW conversions. 11 amps seems about right.

For the VW cruising with one fuel pump:

Fuel Pump 4 Amps
Injectors (4 at 50% duty) 2 Amps
Sec Ign 5 Amps

There is your 11 Amps

You don’t have to agree with this, but this is the problem/question as I see it:

How do you correct the poor induction/fuel distribution problem with VW conversions without destroying the VWs most desirable salient feature, affordability?

The only answer I can come up with is a more affordability ECU. EFI is an interesting project and developing an ECU is closely aligned with my professional experience. So, I can’t help myself. I’m going to give it a shot.

What I envision is a speed density system as the primary ECU. Backup will be an independent alpha-s ECU, laid out on the same board. The backup ECU will be TBI driving a single injector and using the primary ignition to time the injection. That will keep current draw down to about 5 amps in an emergency. Communication will be via CAN bus with protocol closely patterned after ARINC 825.

Initial development will focus on the primary ECU. The ECU will “live” forward of the firewall. All components must be rated for 125 Deg. C. operation. The STM32L476 MPU will be used. I’ve used the Cortex M4 core for over 10 years and I’m comfortable with it. The STM32L476 has all the needed peripherals and the development system and evaluation boards are readily available.

So here I go. I seldom brought my work home so I have to get some tools. Where can I buy a good Electronic Tech. I suck at bread boarding :slight_smile:

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2021 6:06 pm

by BRS

You can do it with one injector but then that will not allow fine tuning. This is something I really like in the SDS. I can adjust each injector independently so that each cylinder peaks at the same time. But as you hinted, that kind of sophistication might be overkill for a sonex & VW engine.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 13, 2021 7:49 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Brock,

Sorry, I wasn’t clear. You’re absolutely right. To solve the “problem” you have to have an injector for each cylinder. The primary ECU will have four injectors. I’m just a timid guy and I have to have redundancy. Using TBI as a backup in the event of a primary ECU failure, rather than a fully redundant ECU, is just a cost cutting measure. It also reduces the installation effort and the power requirements while running on backup. It was a requirement while selecting the MCU that there be sufficient timers that an independent timer be available for each of the four injector to allow for fuel balancing.

Most of the timers have four “input capture/output compare” channels. As it turns out, I think I will need only three pulsed inputs for the primary ECU. Two inputs for secondary ignition and one for primary ignition. All four channels of a 32 bit timer will be implemented so that if (sometime later) a cam position sensor is added sequential FI could be implemented.

BTW, at what power level do you hit the LOP button? Does the ECU ensure you are below say … 75% power?

Thanks,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sun Mar 14, 2021 12:04 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Guys,

From humble beginnings …

The supplies are starting to arrive.

The evaluation board for the STM32L476:

There will be two of these processors, one for the primary and one for the secondary ECU. The first $20 of the BOM.

A neat idea from Ada Fruit to quickly hook up for evaluation:

Just peal off a jumper and plug it in.

And the test bed:

One mag and Dyna S for secondary.

Just a little explanation about this project. I’m not quite as delusional as I might seem. I have no visions of grandeur. There is no money to be made here, it’s a hobby. This project will be of roughly the same scale as building an airplane. Like building an airplane it’s conceptually simple. All you have to do is read a few sensors, squirt some fuel, and throw a spark. But, as they say, the devil is in the details. So, for a season, my hobby money will go to Digikey and Mouser instead of Sonex LLC and ACS.

Worst case: I have an interesting/engaging project to work on. For at least a while it keeps me off the streets and out of the bars. But ultimately, the concept is flawed, and I give up.

Best case: The project is successful and we drag the VW, kicking and screaming, into the 21st century.

I’ve been doing this type of work for a long time. Yes, I owned a TRS-80 model 1 with a tape cassette for program storage. I also owned a Commodore 64 with a floppy drive that ran so hot it would melt the data right off the disk :slight_smile:

I’m perfectly capable of implementing the software. The learning curve will be what not how. Example: How big of a primer pulse is needed on startup.

So, why am I bothering you guys with this? Simple, I don’t want to feel alone. I can’t talk to my wife about it. Withing 20 seconds she will have an involuntary yawn reflex and her eyes will literally glaze over.

You see this type of initiative come and go on chat groups. But, I’ve never seen one come to a positive conclusion. Enthusiasm fades at the first sign of trouble. I hope this time it will be different.

If you’re interested, please contribute. If not, ignore me. Periodically I’ll mention upcoming needs. If you want to contribute some grey matter or material support, please do.

The first roadblock will be the intake logs. It is company policy at Sonex LLC not to sell individual conversion components and I understand their position. My backup is to use GPAS logs. I’ve talked to a machinist and he can tig some material onto the logs, face it, and machine it for injectors. We’ll see. Ultimately for this project to be successful a permanent solution to this problem will have to be found.

If anyone has some Sonex intake logs you’re not using I would be happy to buy them. Or, anyone who owns an AeroVee could call up Sonex and tell them the dog ate your intakes and you need a replacement set :slight_smile:

Anyway, I think this will be a fun ride.

Wes

Edit: I got an inexpensive O-scope. Four channels @ 50 Mhz. Plenty good for this effort. And I can post screen shots to facilitate discussion and clarify questions :slight_smile:


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 12:45 am

by NWade

Cool stuff, Wes!

Have you looked at the open source automotive projects along these lines? It’s been a few years since I was involved in racing, but the “Megajolt Lite Jr” and “Megasquirt” projects were pretty solid efforts at microcontroller-based fuel injection and ignition, with variable timing and all kinds of tunability.

—Noel

Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 9:22 am

by WesRagle

Morning Noel,

Win, lose, or draw this is going to be fun.

Yes, I have looked at MegaSquirt. I’ve downloaded the assembler source code for the old 6800 based system and the newer code written in C. I’ve stashed the code for reference. However …

My experience is from the certified world. I haven’t checked to see if there is a TSO for fuel injection but if there is it will almost certainly require the code be certified to DO178(B or C) Level A. If a design assurance level isn’t given in the TSO, the producer will be required to conduct a “System Safety Assessment”. I can almost guarantee the outcome of the assessment would be a Level A effort. And I couldn’t argue with that.

A Level A assessment brings a lot of requirements. Here is some text from Wikipedia explaining the different failure conditions.

Catastrophic – Failure may cause a crash. Error or loss of critical function required to safely fly and land aircraft.
Hazardous – Failure has a large negative impact on safety or performance, or reduces the ability of the crew to operate the aircraft due to physical distress or a higher workload, or causes serious or fatal injuries among the passengers. (Safety-significant)
Major – Failure is significant, but has a lesser impact than a Hazardous failure (for example, leads to passenger discomfort rather than injuries) or significantly increases crew workload (safety related)
Minor – Failure is noticeable, but has a lesser impact than a Major failure (for example, causing passenger inconvenience or a routine flight plan change)
No Effect – Failure has no impact on safety, aircraft operation, or crew workload.

And here are the design assurance levels associated with the various failure conditions.

Level Failure condition Objectives[5] With independence Failure Rate
A Catastrophic 66 25 10−9/h
B Hazardous 65 14 10−7/h
C Major 57 2 10−5/h
D Minor 28 2 10−3/h
E No Effect 0 0 n/a

One failure every 1 billion hours!?!?!? At first blush you would think it impossible. But remember, there are three types of liars. Liars, Damn Liars, and Statisticians.

Anyway, all of this to say: The most recent code for the MegaSquirt ECUs runs totally counter to excepted norms in the aviation industry. The challenge we face is how simple and reliable can we make it. The challenge they face is how flexible can we make it to capture maximum market share.

You can’t have a lot of unused options floating around in Level A code. In fact, you are not allowed a single line of “dead” code. If you want to water your eyes, have a look at the MCDC requirements for Level A.

Honestly, I would never leave the ground with a MegaSquirt.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 6:35 pm

by lakespookie

I am in aerospace and i think your assestment is incorrect, This would be DAL B. An engine failure does not result in a crash it can result in an off field landing but not necessarily a total loss of aircraft. Its a borderline evaluation but very few things are DAL A and most things can easily be brought down in DAL level via redundancy. The Aeromomentum uses a microsquirt ECU for its control and has a fall back fail safe mode. All that being said this is the one place where i wish they had a second set of Computers and it will be something i probably tinker at my own risk even if its something as simple as having a second entire ECU system although at that point a common wiring harness would still leave you with a possible single point failure although given the 4 individual injectors and split coils it would have to be a catostrophic wirning failure.

Also technically you are not allowed any dead code at any DAL level you can have deactivated code but it needs to be tested to never be accessible or built into the binaries.

For refrence the coding and performance standards of all dal levels is the same and spelled out in DO-178 C, the only diffrence is the level of rigor of the validation and the related documentation required to prove you meet your stated function.

Keep in mind that is a very simplified analysis of DO-178 and the DAL levels but lots of people get paid lots of money to make sure software meets those validation standards and its the reason why Certified items are 3-10 times the amount of non cert items, is to produce the artifacts of compliance in order to meet the certification standard.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 7:42 pm

by phenry

Wes,
I was advised by Mark Schaible in Feb 2020 (See below)

Are you speaking of the red anodized intake elbows that bolt to the cylinder heads? If so, you would be looking for part numbers ACV-M01-11 and ACV-M01-12 as shown in the AeroVee Assembly Manual: http://www.aeroconversions.com/support/ … Manual.pdf
Price is $158.25 each.

This indicated the intake manifolds were available to purchase individually.

I have my Aerovee fitted with EFI using these same manifolds I will post an update of the configuration. Uses Microsquirt with full redundancy incorporating changeover to normally aspirated operation.

Hope this helps
Peter
Waiex #149


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 8:00 pm

by Bryan Cotton

I’ve never seen a loss of all engines categorized as anything but catastrophic. Of course losing the engine can have a successful outcome, but it depends where and when it happens.

In a former life I was a helicopter fly by wire guy at Sikorsky. No way did we allow any dead source code whether it made it to the binaries or not.

For a hobby application like we are discussing here, the key thing is Wes’s comfort and familiarity of the system. I do not think that DO178 is not necessary here and how would you do it as a one man show anyway? Unless the dog or cat can do peer reviews.

Wes I think this is a cool project. Good luck and keep us posted!

I think if I did it I’d add a second power source. Maybe something like a Kubota PMG. Makes no practical sense in a Sonex but I think this is more about play time than anything else. You know, fun.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 8:33 pm

by phenry

Wes,

If you want to use your existing manifolds there are a number of options for mounting the injectors, below is a link to just one supplier with some examples.
https://www.efihardware.com/


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 15, 2021 8:37 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Guys,

Well, I’m back in the boonies with plumbing supplies. I’ll be cleaning up the place and fixing leaks. So, for the next few days no keyboard. That means I can’t argue with Jaun :wink:

Peter, Mark declined to sell me a set. Now my fealings are hurt. And please update us on your experience. Please feel free to use this thread so we can keep the EFI stuff kind of bunched together. My comments on MegaSquirt are just opinions, and you know what they say about opinions.

And Brian, you’re right. There is no way to meet the independence requirements. I was just trying to draw a contrast.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 10:56 am

by WesRagle

Hi Peter,

Are you talking about putting bosses in the GPAS logs?

I found this:
https://www.efihardware.com/products/c382/Injector-Bosses-and-Mounts

Problem is I’m clueless. Not a machinist, welder, or gearhead. Is there a video or expinarion I could read?

Thanks,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 5:58 pm

by lakespookie

As far as bosses you have two main options,

A machine the intake to work as the injector boss and seal with the built in injector o-ring
B drill and weld the injector boss into the intake

Pros and cons to both.

one you will need machined the other you will need welded really depends on what is possible with the aerovee logs i suspect that its pretty thin walled tubing so you will need to weld on some bosses the one disadvantage is you obviously have to remove the anodizing.

Have you thought about how you are going to solve the fuel rail? i feel like that is a bigger issue than the bosses hell you can get away with just drilling and sealing the bosses with RTV if you have a good attachment system for keeping the injectors pressed into the logs if you use a bar style fuel rail setup. of course you need to do this twice since you have intakes on both sides.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 6:31 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Jaun,

No keyboard. Briefly, please go here http://www.sonexflight.com/58/index.html and listen and review tne show notes and you will see my starting point.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 9:21 pm

by lakespookie

I have seen the SDS sonexflight pod cast, and that is a very valid starting point and they solved. you asked about how to install bosses so i was giving you a few options I really should have done a better job of reading since you did mention GPAS and i assumed you were talking about the aerovee logs thats my bad.

sepreatly on the power draw issue you can look at going to the lower ampreage draw coils and also there is an alternator install that was very interesting in the aerovee forums.

Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2021 7:57 pm

by phenry

Wes,
The mounts you found are just the sort of thing that could be employed. It is up to you what approach you take; I have seen several solutions that work fine.

Each solution has its own set of issues, the GPAS manifolds have bosses already moulded into them in about the right place, however they may not be big enough for the injector carriers you have identified and may need the bosses building up to take the threaded mount.

Some things to be considered:
• Holding the injector in place.
• Holding the fuel rail in place on the injector.
• Injector size. (see below).
• Injector wiring/plug clearance
• Fuel line connection to fuel rail.

When putting my system together choosing the correct injector was very tedious because we needed to select an injector that firstly delivered the right amount of fuel in its optimum operational range. We found the CHD 610 which is rated at 25 lb/hr best after trying a range of different sizes. This meant I had to make different fuel rails for each injector tested.

Keep in mind the penetration of the injector nozzle is a major consideration when choosing or building the mount.

One factor to be considered in my system was that I use Semi-sequential injection because the Aerovee does not have a distributor, there is no way of knowing which of the cylinders in each bank is going to fire next. Not a problem you have to deal with so you could go Full Sequential.

Next, which ever injector you choose the manifold / mount / fuel rail combination must be tailored to suit.

After a lot of experimenting I am currently building a new and “forever” final set of manifolds based on a pair of Aerovee manifolds I purchased from Facebook Maketplace. I will post some pictures as I (slowly) progress.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2021 10:20 am

by sonex1374

Hi Peter,

Good to hear from you again! I’m glad you’re still refining and optimizing your EFI system! I’ve been slowly gathering the materials for a conversion myself, and hope to try it out eventually.

I bought these injectors based on another Sonex builder’s experience, and they simplify the plumbing somewhat. The unit is actually two parts - the injector itself (the purple part) and the housing with the mounting boss, hose nipple and wiring plug.


s-l1600.jpg (42 KiB) Viewed 4552 times

The injectors were purchased from ebay, and are replacement motorcycle injectors rated at 120 cc/min (a little high, but reportedly works OK for an 80 HP engine). https://www.ebay.com/itm/274442493663?ul_noapp=true

Hoses connect directly to the injector without the use of a fuel rail, but that means you can’t create a continuous loop for the fuel flow (a bit of a tradeoff). Instead, you’ll have a manifold that receives fuel from the pump and then splits to each of the 4 injectors, plus a return line to the fuel pressure regulator and back to the tank. SDS makes a nifty billet machined fuel manifold, and that’s what I plan to use.


block22.jpg (44.27 KiB) Viewed 4552 times

http://www.sdsefi.com/sdsaero.htm

While you’re at it, you might buy the fuel pump and pressure regulator from SDS as they are high quality units. Whether you buy the SDS computer, Microsquirt, or roll your own is up to you. I plan to keep the AeroInjector installed for use as the throttle body (mixture knob at idle-cutoff), plus plumbed for fuel as a manual backup to the EFI (mixture knob full-rich).

Jeff


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2021 3:55 pm

by GordonTurner

Not trying to inject any knowledge here, but a question related to Jeffs post. Instead of either hard fuel rails that would complicate install but allow circulation, or an octopus of small lines, one to each injector (half an octopus in this case), that don’t allow any circulation at the most critical sections, why not a loop of somewhat larger hose with a T at or near each injector? Maybe easier install combined with circulation for cooler fuel.

Gordon, not an efi engineer.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2021 4:17 pm

by kmacht

It is great to see this discussion going on. I have been thinking about and planning an SDS conversion for my aerovee for quite a while now and finally have the money set aside to start the conversion.

Jeff - On the fuel injectors you posted, how does the fuel line attach? Is it just a push fit and hose clamps? If so, any concerns with leaks due to the 40PSI the fuel pumps will be pushing through the system?

What is everyone planning on or have used for fuel pumps? The dual walbro setup on the SDS site seems a bit overkill for the fuel volume the aerovee needs. It would be nice to find something that doesn’t draw quite so much current as one of my concerns with the conversion is if the 20amp alternator can keep up (especially during a long taxi such as at airventure) or if I need consider running an external alternator off the back of the crank somehow.

I also have this crazy idea to keep the aero-carb on the airplane as a backup in case I were to loose electrical power to the ECU somehow. The aerocarb would stay in place and you would just need shut off the ECU and open the mixture to the aerocarb in order to switch over. Has anyone thought about using the aerocarb as the throttle body? It would need a potentiometer attached to it somehow in order to also work as a throttle position sensor but other than the slide not being completely linear in the amount of air it lets in as it opens up I am not seeing why it wouldn’t work. Thoughts?

Keith
#554


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 1:23 am

by lakespookie

Keith something to consider the reason for the dual pumps is so that you have redundancy there is also the issue that if you run a single pump unless you build a bypass system a fuel pump failure can lead to fuel starvation. I would not run both pumps at the same time or continously except in an emergency


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:15 am

by phenry

Keith,

Your idea about the dual fuel system is not crazy, that’s exactly how the system in my plane works. This has some major advantages, EFI redundancy can be reduced for example you do not need two pumps reducing current draw and cost. The pump I am using draws 2.5 amps and can deliver up to 45 Lt/Hr.

There is no need for a position sensor because the whole system works from inlet manifold pressure, throttle open, more air and ECU adds more fuel and visa versa.

Switching form EFI to normal operation in flight is no worse than a Sonex burp.

Reflecting on an early comment about not using Mega/Micro Squirts because they may be unreliable, if you can switch back to normally aspirated operation and believe me you can, why get hung up on a 1 in 100,000 chance of failure.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:19 am

by phenry

Jeff,

Great to hear from you again been a long time since the podcast. Yes, Chris and I are still at it, have the system running really well now and Chris has his 912 injected as well.

The injector setup you have picked is an excellent solution. What manifold are you intending use and how will the injectors be retained?

I have created the same type of fuel manifold you have shown. The fuel manifold and pump integrate together on a neat little rail that also holds the MAP sensor and propeller position sensor wiring.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 7:20 am

by phenry

Gordon,

While some setups have a full loop for the fuel lines, I understand this is mainly for cooling reasons (open to correction), We have found this to be unnecessary and have dead end lines, this reduces the complication and plumbing.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 10:10 am

by Bryan Cotton

kmacht wrote:I also have this crazy idea to keep the aero-carb on the airplane as a backup in case I were to loose electrical power to the ECU somehow.
Keith
#554

That is a great crazy idea! I like it.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 10:25 am

by sonex1374

phenry wrote:What manifold are you intending use and how will the injectors be retained?

The injectors will be mounted into the standard AeroVee intake elbows (e.g. the red “intake logs”). Due to the depth of the injector the wall thickness of the elbow needs to be increased (the flat area above the intake ports on the head). Other builders have done this two ways - 1) weld a 3/8" thick aluminum plate to the outside of the elbow, or 2) attach a 3/8" thick plate to the elbow using bolts that screw into holes tapped in the elbow. The welding required the red anodizing be removed first (using spray oven cleaner to “eat” the anodizing off), and the drill-and-tap method requires adding tapped holes and then using permanent red loctite to attach the plate. The reinforcing plate also has the tapped holes for the injector hold-down bolts to retain the injector itself.

The whole thing can easily be made by first machining the reinforcing plate to the correct outside dimensions, adding the 4 tapped holes (2 for the injectors, 2 to attach to the intake elbow), then the plate can be positioned onto the intake elbow and the hole locations transferred directly from the plate. You could almost make this a bolt-on kit this way (installer would need to drill the elbow for the injector holes and the plate attach screws though).

I agree that the dual walbro pump that SDS uses is probably overkill. I think one good quality pump is sufficient with a manual AeroCarb backup. This type of EFI gets it’s redundancy not electronically but with the manual fuel delivery option. Simple, light and electrically-efficient.

I also think that dead-end lines to the injector are probably OK. The lines are under pressure (40 psi), and that should help keep them liquid and not vaporizing. Running good quality injector hose, proper injector clamps, and insulated with fire sleeve should take care of the rest.

Give my best to Chris!

Jeff

Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 8:25 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Pete,

phenry wrote:Wes,
The mounts you found are just the sort of thing that could be employed. It is up to you what approach you take; I have seen several solutions that work fine.

Each solution has its own set of issues, the GPAS manifolds have bosses already moulded into them in about the right place, however they may not be big enough for the injector carriers you have identified and may need the bosses building up to take the threaded mount.

Some things to be considered:
• Holding the injector in place.
• Holding the fuel rail in place on the injector.
• Injector size. (see below).
• Injector wiring/plug clearance
• Fuel line connection to fuel rail.

When putting my system together choosing the correct injector was very tedious because we needed to select an injector that firstly delivered the right amount of fuel in its optimum operational range. We found the CHD 610 which is rated at 25 lb/hr best after trying a range of different sizes. This meant I had to make different fuel rails for each injector tested.

Keep in mind the penetration of the injector nozzle is a major consideration when choosing or building the mount.

Thanks a bunch for your post. You pretty much stated all of the things that are bugging me.

The pile of parts is growing and I now have a set of AeroConversions intakes:

I pulled one of the injectors from the throttle body and and the boss on the GPAS log is just a tad to small to accept the seal provided with the injector. That’s why the machinist I talked to suggested adding material.

Of course that leads to the next question. If I were to locate an injector with a standard O-ring bottom seal would that be small enough that the manifold could be machined without adding material? And if I did that would the the injector end up with the proper penetration and “aimed” at the right place (which I assume is the top of the intake valve).

Not much better when considering the “Red Logs”. I start looking and I find any number of bosses. I assume I would have to use the correct one for the injector I pick. Different ones, different penetration? And picking an injector is a pretty big chore in and of itself. Different body styles, different spray patterns, …

All of this to say I’m having a heck of a time gaining any traction. This may sound like a bit of a cop out but … Knowing that you and Jeff are both working on installation details, and since ya’ll intend to share your design/findings, I think I would be wasting my time trying to do the same thing. I’m 100% confident either of you guys will come up with a better solution than I could.

So, I’m going to run off and spend my time considering a VW specific ECU. It will be quite some time before I need the physicals to make progress. I’ll be standing by watching for installation details as they emerge.

I do have a couple of questions that I would like answered.

Pete: Do you have a VE and Ignition table/map that you have used on a VW conversion and are willing to share?

And for you guys that are using the AeroInjector as a throttle body. Have you, or do you intend to, forgo the throttle position sensor? I ask the question because I had intended to use the TPS to cross check the MAP sensor.

EDIT1:
I re-read the thread and Pete already answered the question.

There is no need for a position sensor because the whole system works from inlet manifold pressure, throttle open, more air and ECU adds more fuel and visa versa. Switching form EFI to normal operation in flight is no worse than a Sonex burp.

EDIT2:

One factor to be considered in my system was that I use Semi-sequential injection because the Aerovee does not have a distributor, there is no way of knowing which of the cylinders in each bank is going to fire next. Not a problem you have to deal with so you could go Full Sequential.

I don’t have a distributor. I have a Dyna S electronic ignition. Unless I’m confused it works just like the secondary ignition on the AeroVee. For full sequential I would have to have a cam position sensor. I don’t intend to pursue that at this time. I intend to pursue semi-sequential. Batch in the event of a secondary ignition failure.

Thanks for Your Time,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2021 10:11 am

by WesRagle

Folks,

Chris, the esteemed owner/moderator of this forum, has added a section under “Engines And Firewall Forward” specifically for the discussion of Fuel Injection. That should help us keep fuel injection subject matter somewhat organized. So please, keep the discussion going.

A shameless plug: For those who enjoy this group, please don’t forget the Donate button located at the upper right of this page.

Thanks,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2021 8:57 pm

by phenry

OK, This is the beginning of how I have set up my EFI.

This is how I have done it and anything you take away from this is at your own risk.
Most of the brains behind this system is the work of Chris Bishoff and I have only refined the details over time.

The idea was to create a EFI system that could be easily switched back to normally aspirated operation allowing for a fully redundant system that was safe as possible, very uncomplicated, cheap and could deal with the inherent limitations of the Aerovee engine (low available electrical power and no distributor).

My particular problem was that I could not, no matter what I did get the Aerovee/Aeroinjector to idle properly and many times had the engine quit on landing (very embarrassing).

Fuel Plumbing:


Fuel Plumbing.jpg (89.14 KiB) Viewed 5787 times


Gascolator.jpg (62.92 KiB) Viewed 5914 times


Distrution Manifold #1.jpg (21.74 KiB) Viewed 5914 times


Distrution Manifold.jpg (23.54 KiB) Viewed 5914 times


Pump-Regulator.jpg (27.63 KiB) Viewed 5914 times


Installation.jpg (62.13 KiB) Viewed 5905 times


Manifold Perssure Feed.jpg (51.97 KiB) Viewed 5905 times


Modifold Pressure Tapping #2.jpg (48.64 KiB) Viewed 5903 times

Note how the MAP sensor is mounted on the Pump/Pressure Regulator assembly. This made it easy to connect the regulator manifold pressure compensation line and MAP sensor in one place.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2021 10:49 pm

by WesRagle

Hey Pete,

Very cool!

phenry wrote:This is how I have done it and anything you take away from this is at your own risk.

I take full responsibility for anything I do in experimental aviation.

phenry wrote:Note how the MAP sensor is mounted on the Pump/Pressure Regulator assembly. This made it easy to connect the regulator manifold pressure compensation line and MAP sensor in one place.

Got it.

You guys have fully convinced me that my idea of implementing electronic TBI as a backup to the primary ECU is a bad idea. Reversion to a fully manual system is the correct answer. Even in the certified world if you want to reduce the design assurance level by using a redundant system you will likely be faced with having to design a “dissimilar” system for backup to eliminate common failure modes. Fully manual is about as dissimilar as you can get. It also eliminates electrical dependency. It also simplifies the ECU design. And for most folks, it reduces the cost of a retrofit. And, simple is good!

As time permits, would you please give part numbers for the regulator, pump, etc.

While considering a ground up ECU I put together a list of analog inputs I would need to monitor.

MAP
IAT
CHT (Engine Temp)
MIXTURE POT
BUS VOLTAGE
FUEL RAIL PRESSURE

Question: Other than MAP, which of these signals do you use?

Again, thanks for your time.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 12:10 am

by lakespookie

I have questions

  1. how are you guys handling the fuel pump interface?
  2. do you have a bypass valve for the pump?
  3. if not how are you reducing the pressure seen at the aerocarb assume a runaway pump?
  4. if you are just going to pull the circuit breaker in that case how are you addressing the fuel feed restriction introduced by the fuel pump?

Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 12:32 am

by phenry

Fuel tank head pressure only fuel is available to both the EFI pump and the Aeroinjector via the gascolator at all times.
When running EFI the Aeroinjector mixture is closed, no flow to Carb.
When not running EFI, pump is de-energized along with ECU and mixture is open, flow to Carb.

  1. how are you guys handling the fuel pump interface?
    The pump inlet (in my case) is plumbed directly into the gascolcator. This is only at fuel tank head pressure. When the pump is stopped no fuel is pumped.
  2. do you have a bypass valve for the pump?
    Because of the arrangement described above, there is no need for a bypass valve.
  3. if not how are you reducing the pressure seen at the Aeroinjector assume a runaway pump?
    The Aeroinjector is supplied via a separate line directly from the gascolator with tank head pressure only. (see previous drawing)
  4. if you are just going to pull the circuit breaker in that case how are you addressing the fuel feed restriction introduced by the fuel pump?
    See above.

Hope this helps


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 12:46 am

by phenry

Wes,

Again this is how I am doing it. You are on your own to add whatever you want.

A number of items are monitored in the usual manner CHT’s etc. However in keeping with the KIS principal all I need to run my EFI is:
Crank position sensor.
MAP sensor

In addition we use a pot wired to the disused (Micro squirt) water temperature input to manually tweak the mixture (not used much once the tune is sorted).

You could add an oxygen (O2) sensor but they hate Avgas, are expensive, need an exhaust modification and don’t last long. Once you have it tuned it is set and forget.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 7:28 am

by WesRagle

Pete,

I have no experience with this so all I “know” is what I’ve read. I’m going to try and read between the lines.

phenry wrote:A number of items are monitored in the usual manner CHT’s etc.

I had intended to use a single CHT probe in lieu of Water Temp. to implement “Warm Up Enrichment”. Warm up enrichment is probably not needed and maybe not even desired. If you want to richen, just twist the knob.

phenry wrote:In addition we use a pot wired to the disused (Micro squirt) water temperature input to manually tweak the mixture (not used much once the tune is sorted).

I’m guessing that you have substituted a pot for the water temperature probe and are using Micro squirt’s warm up enrichment function to fine tune mixture.?.?

phenry wrote:You could add an oxygen (O2) sensor but they hate Avgas, are expensive, need an exhaust modification and don’t last long. Once you have it tuned it is set and forget.

I agree that an O2 sensor would run counter the requirement for reliability.

I assume the fuel pressure regulators are very reliable and there is no need to constantly monitor their output.?.?

As for Inlet air temperature, I assume the Micro squirt is using a default value to calculate air density. Do you happen to know what that default value is?

Thanks,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sun May 16, 2021 12:12 am

by phenry

My EFI system is moving from experiment to refined/final version.
I thought you may like to see the latest and last version of the intake manifolds I have created for my EFI system.

Injector retaining/positioning plate.

Positioned on Aerovee intake.

Plate welded to intake with Hex Cap Head screws pressed in from the rear and ceramic coated.
The cap heads are used to retain the fuel rails.

Hole arrangement with injector seal in place.

Injector installed.

View from port side showing injector outlet.

Kind of like the Ferrari red (should go much faster).

Peter Henry
Waiex #149


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sun May 16, 2021 8:14 am

by WesRagle

Hey Peter,

That’s awesome!

Earlier you said

The pump I am using draws 2.5 amps and can deliver up to 45 Lt/Hr.

What pump are you using?

Thanks,

Wes

Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sun May 16, 2021 12:22 pm

by Bryan Cotton

phenry wrote:My EFI system is moving from experiment to refined/final version.
Peter Henry
Waiex #149

Very cool!


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Tue May 25, 2021 6:49 pm

by WesRagle

Hi Guys,

My ECU project is moving along. I don’t want to find myself all dressed up with no place to go. So … I’m looking for ways to implement the physical side of data acquisition. At present I believe the only external analog signals I want to acquire are Battery Voltage, Inlet Air Temperature, Manifold Pressure, and Engine Temp. Since I don’t weld I’ve been looking for a “cheat” on MAP and IAT. While poking around on the web I found this:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/All-In-One-Roll-Bar-Accessory-Clamps,42491.html.

I bought the 1.5" version and sure enough, it appears to be a near perfect fit.

While looking for sensors, I came across this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264607384540
Dimensional Drawing is near the bottom of the page.

It looks like with an adapter plate, proper reaming, and some RTV to ensure a good seal against the intake pipe I’ll have a workable solution for MAP and IAT without welding.

Question for those with machinist experience: The business end of the MAP/IAT sensor is shown to be 12 mm. Is that the size reamer I should order? Am I to assume that the O-ring will compress in the groove to match the 12 mm OD?

Thanks,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Wed May 26, 2021 8:21 pm

by thomas

Hi Wes,

I so much enjoy your posts - thank you for the detailed explanations you are sharing.

For sizing o-ring hole diameters, I measure the actual outside diameter of the cylinder that carries the o-ring (the MAP/IAT sensor business end) and add 0.001” to the ID I want to ream. Almost never do I have a reamer that is exactly the size I need. In practicality, I’d find a reamer about 0.001” to 0.010” over the cylinder OD for a hole slightly over 1/2”. If the gap is too large, the o-ring may pinch between the OD and ID during assembly. Hopefully, your sensor cylinder OD is slightly under 12mm and you can buy a basic 12mm reamer. A good chamfer on the hole entrance and very light coating of o-ring compatible lube will make up for any o-ring tightness on assembly.

I look forward to reading more posts from you as you pioneer this system.

Best,
Paul


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu May 27, 2021 10:47 am

by WesRagle

HI Paul,

Thanks for the reply, and the kind words.

I pulled out my somewhat flaky calipers and the shaft of the probe measures 0.467 (11.86 mm). Since 12 mm = 0.472, it looks like if I order a 12 mm reamer it will put me right in the center of the range you suggest (0.005 Oversize). Sound about right?

It turns out that the threaded hole in the center of the clamp is for a 1/2" bolt. So, the reamer isn’t going to remove all of the threads. I may have to apply some silicon sealer to seal around the O-ring depending on the penetration I want.

We’ll See,

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu May 27, 2021 2:24 pm

by thomas

Hi Wes,

The RTV may work in the beginning but could really frustrate you over time if small air leaks develop between the sharp edges of the partially-drilled thread grooves and the OD of the o-ring.

My suggestion would be to chamfer and ream a 1/2" hole in a piece of scrap aluminum and test fit the o-ring assembly. It looks like your sensor has a reasonably fat o-ring. So, depending on the depth they set the o-ring groove, there may still be ample o-ring squish to seal inside the .500" hole. As long as you are able to feel reasonable friction as the o-ring slides into the hole, you should be ok. The excessive gap (.500 - .467)/2 = .017" should still be fine because you are sealing such a low pressure differential (14.7 psi at full vacuum).

PM me your address if you need a 1/2" reamer mailed. I live in Houston and could send it out today.

Paul


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu May 27, 2021 3:45 pm

by WesRagle

HI Paul,

Thanks, looks like 1/2" will work.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2021 9:59 pm

by phenry

I finally got out to the hangar to install the new intakes for my Aerovee / EFI, here are a couple of pictures. Ran really well.


Intake3.jpg (76.35 KiB) Viewed 5605 times


Intake2.jpg (38.15 KiB) Viewed 5605 times


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2021 5:22 pm

by WesRagle

Hey Peter,

That looks great! However, I see trouble in my Onex future.

Wes


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Thu Jun 17, 2021 7:32 pm

by phenry

Yes Wes,

That extra engineering is going to look a bit odd hanging out the side of a Onex.


Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 11:01 pm

by phenry

Here is the final piece of the puzzle, crank position sensor.

I used a Honeywell 1GT101DC gear-tooth sensor because I had one laying around, there are probably better sensors around and it does require a pull up resistor to work properly with the Microsquirt ECU. Having said that it works perfectly.

I use extended propeller bolts to trigger the sensor, one bolt is shorter than the other five and this bolt provides the “missing pulse” that starts the injection sequence.

Refining the bracket that holds the sensor will probably next receive my attention, however it works just fine. I had considered a much more complicated arrangement with a notched wheel on the prop shaft or on the rear ignition triggers but it does not fit with my "keep it simple approach.

Some may comment about out of balance forces with different length bolts I am at the moment prepared to live with tiny effect if any. The bolts could probably be shortened with the sensor set closer to the hub and still work, I just haven’t bothered.


CrankPos1.jpg (77 KiB) Viewed 5364 times


CrankPos2.jpg (64.6 KiB) Viewed 5364 times


CrankPos3.jpg (53.29 KiB) Viewed 5364 times

Re: DIY-EFI

Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2021 11:24 pm

by WesRagle

HI Peter,

Nice to see it coming together. Looking forward to performance reports!

Wes