Baggage area DIY

Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 12:23 am

by Bryan Cotton

With some cross country ahead of us, it was time to make a baggage area. I decided to make it sort of trapezoid shaped, like the shape of the formers and side rails. Here is the paper pattern. After I made the trapezoid, I made 4 rectangular walls 10" deep. I taped these onto the trapezoid, and then traced out the pattern on the fabric. I then marked out the horizontal part where the velcro would go. Also, for the corners of the baggage area, I put an extra 1" margin to sew the corners together.

Here it is cut out. I sewed up most of the velcro while it was still flat. It is a lot easier that way. Besides the velcro that would be mounting the baggage area to the aircraft, I put a couple of strips on the front of the baggage area to hold stuff there later. Initially I did not have a floor, except fabric, and it was more like a duffle bag effect. I didn’t like that.

Here it is after sewing. I also made a pattern using posterboard for a closeout of the triangular section. You can see I also have my floor in place. It is foam posterboard and is velcroed in place. Sticky velcro on the foam board, and I sewed the velcro onto the fabric.

Bottom part in place and you can see there is a strip of velcro sewn in for the top closeout.

Here is the top closeout in place. It helps keep the seatbelts from getting twisted up. I haven’t flown with it yet but I think it looks good.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 12:35 am

by Bryan Cotton

I thought I would split up the post a little in case it crashed while I was typing or something.

Here I have started putting junk in. I made a little tool pouch. It has a couple of screwdrivers, a lightweight set of motorcycle toolkit pliers, a spare pitot tube, valve stem extenders, and my dipstick remover. The tool pouch has velcro to stick to the front of the baggage area.

I have been using decalin to scavenge the lead. I have a little 12oz bottle marked in half oz increments, which is how much you add for 5 gallons of 100LL. I put some velcro on it so it would stay upright in the baggage area.

I bought 4 sheets of the foam board thinking I’d build up a 2-layer thing that would match the trapezoid shape. One sheet was not big enough to cover the wide dimension at the front of the baggage area. I decided to try a rectangle that fit into the back corners. That actually seemed good enough, so I sewed in some velcro to stick it in place. Now I have a pretty flat floor. If I was doing this over, I would have made the square floor to match the aft width and sewn in the velcro while the fabric was still flat. It’s a lot easier.

The fabric is lightweight ripstop nylon. I bought 3 yards and could have gotten by with less than 2.
https://www.joann.com/rip-stop-nylon/7250426.html

Here is the foam board I bought.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pen-Gear-Whi … hbdg=L1102

I think I spent about $30 total. Weight of the finished baggage area is 1 lb.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 3:28 am

by Weatherpilot

Very nice. Thank you for sharing.

Greg.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 9:20 am

by T41pilot

I did the sides and bottom with .025 during the build. The back is done with blue insulation foam braced on the back side to side in the middle with a piece of small aluminum angle. The foam is glued in place with RTV in case I ever want to take it apart again some day. Everything is covered with indoor/outdoor carpet. The carpet was thin and didn’t weigh much. I had to make a raised tunnel on the floor to clear the elevator pushrod. It is removable for inspections.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sat Mar 11, 2023 10:42 am

by Bryan Cotton

Thanks Greg H!
Gregg K, that looks great.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sat Mar 25, 2023 9:36 pm

by Bryan Cotton

I had my seat out to do some maintenance and took this picture of my baggage area.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sun May 19, 2024 1:56 pm

by Bryan Cotton

Here is a sketch: Edit this sketch is the finished dimensions of the baggage area flat pattern. Fabric cutout will be larger for velcro, and for stitching the corners up as described below.

In case my writing is hard to read:
The trapezoid is 36.75" along the seatback, and 30" in the aft part of the bay. It has a height of 18", meaning between the seatback frame and the next frame aft. The sides of the trapezoid end up being about 18 3/8" long. I think I drew two parallel lines 18" apart, drew a centerline, and centered the 30" and 36.75" lines then drew the sides.
All 4 sides have a depth of 10". That works for me - you can adjust as you see fit.
On top of the 10", you need to add at least 1" for the velcro to attach to the airframe. The longerons have a width of 1", the box structure behind the seat is much wider, and the frame in the aft of the baggage area is greater than an inch. So add at least an inch. I used very light 0.75 oz ripstop nylon, so I think I added 2" to the 10" and folded it over double before I sewed on the velcro.
On the sides, you need to add an inch or so to sew up the corners. Anybody who has made a bag or cushion cover will know they need to do this.
Sew your velcro on before you sew up the corners. It’s a lot easier. The baggage shape is not very nice until you put the foam posterboard in the bottom. So put velcro on the bottom to stick the posterboard to. You can use something else - luann plywood, aluminum, 1/4" steel plate, granite or whatever. Also consider sewing some velcro onto the front wall of the baggage area. I have mating velcro on my toolkit pouch, my decalin container, and my 1 qt oil container that I sometimes carry. Keeps the heavier stuff forward and upright.

Edit: For the triangular closeout, I also sewed some velcro on the top of the aft wall of the baggage area for the triangle to velcro to. Add that to the velcro list before you sew up the corners.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 11:32 pm

by Skippydiesel

My baggage area is a bit of a hybrid of the aforementioned ideas.

The fabric compartment is much the same, with the addition of a zipped cover, that will prevent any items entering the cockpit in turbulence. The cover also acts as a shelf for in flight documents etc.
The inverted V has been closed off, using a purpose built carbon fibre sheet, secured in position with HD Velcro (similar to T41’s idea)

The one mistake with the fabric compartment, was not using all of the available space - it should have extended down to just above the elevator rod. One day I will remake or modify it, to have an additional 100-150mm depth.

I find my Sonex to be very short on storage, so will be modifying the seat pan to have a hatch, each side, to access the under seat space.
Of course this will mean making some dividers to prevent stored items interfering with the aileron/elevator control systems.
My plan is to use this space for infrequently used items eg first aid kit, jack, tyre inflator & repair stuff, tools, etc.
For long cross countries, I will have 2 x 20L collapsible fuel bladders - these will have to go in the right footwell and again some sort of storage compartment will have to be installed to prevent interference with rudder pedals and secure items against turbulent excursions.

I would like to hear from anyone who has gone down this route.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2024 3:05 am

by Skippydiesel

Dont be shy. Someone must have looked at the wasted space, below the seat & come up with a plan to use it


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2024 9:21 am

by Bryan Cotton

Skippydiesel wrote:Dont be shy. Someone must have looked at the wasted space, below the seat & come up with a plan to use it

Air is a light thing you can carry in that space. I have been very happy with my 10" deep baggage area. Besides having space for the things we need to carry, you can actually reach things when flying. We are weight limited so extra baggage space does not make any sense to me.

Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Tue Jun 18, 2024 7:45 pm

by Skippydiesel

Bryan Cotton wrote:

Skippydiesel wrote:Dont be shy. Someone must have looked at the wasted space, below the seat & come up with a plan to use it

Air is a light thing you can carry in that space. I have been very happy with my 10" deep baggage area. Besides having space for the things we need to carry, you can actually reach things when flying. We are weight limited so extra baggage space does not make any sense to me.

Thanks Bryan,

This is not so much about weight as available stowage/space - very poor in the Sonex Legacy.

“We are weight limited” - Yes! A big disappointment. If I had know how low the MTOW v Empty Weight is, I probably would not have purchased my Sonex - my fault - probably the only specification I did not thoroughly research.

As the builder, I can specify a higher MTOW but am reluctant to do so without Sonex approval. Most aircraft with wing tanks (as mine has) have a higher MTOW than their fuselage tank only peers. I put this to Sonex but was rebuffed.

When flying single pilot (100%) there is very little usable space for additional items. My plan is to have infrequent use “stuff” at the same load point as the crew (me). The baggage area aft, will the be freed up for trip supplies (as in camping). The right side footwell will be adapted to carry my 2 x 20L collapsible fuel bladders, needed to fetch ULP from off airfield petrol stations. The right seat will accommodate my infligh & navigation needs (maps/emergency radios/drink/etc)

Dont get me wrong, I like my Sonex but is not quite the touring platform I had hoped for.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2024 9:42 am

by DCASonex

Weight limit is a good incentive to keep my mitts out of the cookie jar. For baggage area I filled in the lower half of the baggage area’s rear bulkhead with two pieces of 0.016" aluminum and made a box cover over the elevator rod. Can toss quite a bit back there. Looked at storing some basic tools under the seat, but found packing them behind the seat (standard seat, not lowered) much more practical. Fortunately wife was relatively light and we were able to use it for traveling. (even with her baggage)

David A.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2024 7:18 pm

by Skippydiesel

DCASonex wrote:Weight limit is a good incentive to keep my mitts out of the cookie jar. For baggage area I filled in the lower half of the baggage area’s rear bulkhead with two pieces of 0.016" aluminum and made a box cover over the elevator rod. Can toss quite a bit back there. Looked at storing some basic tools under the seat, but found packing them behind the seat (standard seat, not lowered) much more practical. Fortunately wife was relatively light and we were able to use it for traveling. (even with her baggage)

David A.

That’s great information David

How do you gain access to the under/back of seat?

I am planning on getting access through two small hatches, either side of the seat base.

I did think of behind seat as an alternativ. I have a luggage “bag” similar to the other people on this thread, that prevents access from that direction, so again access would have to be two small hatches in seat back.

Any thoughts on the pros/cons of under v back of seat???


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2024 3:19 pm

by DCASonex

With the standard seat in an A model, there is a pocket about 3" wide behind the whole width of the seat. Just reach down behind the seat. I find this holds a small tool pack, headset bags, spare quart of oil and other misc. bits.

David A.


Re: Baggage area DIY

Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2024 6:41 pm

by Skippydiesel

DCASonex wrote:With the standard seat in an A model, there is a pocket about 3" wide behind the whole width of the seat. Just reach down behind the seat. I find this holds a small tool pack, headset bags, spare quart of oil and other misc. bits.

David A.

Hi David,

In my aircraft, I can not reach down behind the seat as my baggage “bag” prevents such access. Check out the proceeding photos, much the same set up as I have (I would sent a pic of mine but this Forum seems hostile to non US photos).

I will look again at my under/behind seat options and decide which is likly to be the most useful and make my modifications accordingly.

Thanks for your input

Here are the pictures that did not post.

1 Like

My baggage area is similar using rip-stop nylon fabric. The frame is angled pieces that fit over the cross ties and the shelves I have in the baggage area. The bottom is a thin sheet of left over 6061 aluminum. It folds up and removes easily when I need access to that area.

No doubt I should have used a better looking piece of insulation board to close off the rear of the baggage area but at the time I was headed out and just needed objects in the baggage area to not fall out the rear of it … and it’s still there and working well.

Anyone desiring a look at what I have can see it here at the 6:35 mark:

A Sneak Peek @ Myunn

2 Likes

I used the same.

1 Like

I wanted to maximize my baggage space, but also ensure that items would not interfere with the elevator pushrod or rudder cables. So I used aluminum sheet and a tabletop Harbor Freight bending brake to fabricate covers for each of these control systems - see photos below for detail.

Each cover is attached at the front and rear with a pair of sheetmetal screws (I want to remove them at annual for inspection, but they won’t be removed frequently and don’t experience much load. So screws provide a lightweight solution that will last for many years).

The rudder covers also have flanges that lie flat against the fuselage sidewalls and use adhesive-backed heavy-duty velcro to ensure that they are not able to be pushed down from above (or up from below) into the rudder cables.

The elevator pushrod cover is a “C” shaped upper cover. The downward-facing legs of this cover fit around the outside of existing floor-mounted structure and some supplemental aluminum sheet bent in an “L”-shape and riveted to the floor. This ensures that any side forces on the cover cannot squeeze the cover into the pushrod itself.

On either side of the pushrod cover, I used thick/heavy-gauge clear “Coroplast” that I cut to an exact fit. These pieces are lightweight but rigid and strong - preventing any baggage from sliding aft. They also protect the lower fuselage skin from dings and dents if I drop items into the baggage area. Finally, the clear coroplast allows me to see the status lights on my aft-mounted Xpdr and ELT units (i.e. during pre-flight checks or when troubleshooting). The coroplast is held in place with adhesive-backed velcro (scuffing the coroplast with sandpaper in these areas first, to ensure good adhesion).

The “fiddly” bit of this whole arrangement is the area between the seat-back and the rear spar carrythrough. I didn’t want anything to bounce up and over the carrythrough and jam against the pushrod, so I build some “ears” that screw onto the pushrod cover and hang down in this small space. Again, I use existing floor-mounted structure and a supplemental piece of bent aluminum sheet to prevent the “ears” from being squeezed in, where they meet the floor.

The result is relatively lightweight but extremely strong protection - allowing me to chuck a lot of bulky items in the baggage area without worry. I run out of CG/weight capacity long before I run out of space! I hope its helpful for others to see my implementation.

5 Likes

Very nice Noel!

“Pushrod”?? I assume this means elevator rod?

*“Coroplast” I am a bit concerned about the ability, of what this is covering (fuselage side & belly skin) to take any sort of load, without distorting. A lot depends on the total weight, individual weight/shape of your baggage and any movement during turbulence/landing. :smiling_face_with_horns:

For the Onex, the baggage compartment is pretty straight forward. I just boxed in the entire bay just aft of the cockpit with 0.016 aluminum leaving about 1" between floor and the bottom of the airplane.

Then, a thin piece of plywood in the bottom to take point loads. I glued fabric to the aluminum and plywood. I also added an inspection panel for the elevator idler.

Wes

1 Like

All those solutions look awesome. How much do they weigh? I’ll reiterate my weight, 1 lb. We have put 25 lbs back there going to Oshkosh. Normally it’s just junk in the baggage area and it’s really easy to get to in flight with a 10" depth.

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Honestly, I don’t know. 0.016 is pretty light. The plywood is thin, for skinning as I recall.
In any event, I didn’t know what engine I would end up with, so I installed a heavier/taller gear to accommodate a larger diameter prop on a geared motor. The Hummel is also slightly heavier than an AeroVee so a little extra weight in the back is welcome. I always carry a bit of “stuff” back there for a more comfortable CG.

Wes

1 Like